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1 yeas ago, Zsolt Török was leaving us. Today we celebrate 63 years since Fisura Nordică (Turnul Mare al Dianei) first ascent, 49 years since Turnul Porumbeilor (Turnul Porumbeilor) first ascent, 49 years since Turnul de Aramă (Turnul de Aramă) first ascent

Peretele Policandrului (Vulturilor)






  • Description and routes
  • Timeline
  • Pictures (1)
  • Map
  • Weather

General characteristics

 Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor 

Description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

The wall of the Policandrului/the Eagles, is one of the four main walls of the Co?tilei (next to the Wall of the Valley of the White Wall of the Co?tilei and the Wall of the Marigold). At the same time, out of those 4, is that the more compact the rock, maybe it's just that it's the most popular.

Difference in altitude: 250 m.
Boundary: to the south Wall of the Valley, White to the north, the Crest of the Eagle/ the Giant and the Horn of the Giant
Water source: the spring at the junction of the trail to the Refuge of the Co?tila, and the path to the Valley of the White; water about 20 minutes in the Sanctuary Co?tila on the trail for the climb up (be careful, it can be dry at certain times)
Access: from the town of Co?tila
the fountain at the junction of the trail to the reufugiul Co?tila, and the path to the Valley of the White; water about 20 minutes in the Sanctuary Co?tila on the trail for the climb up (be careful, it can be dry at certain times)

You can read the entire description of the wall, the Wall of the Valley, White: http://www.roclimbs.ro/Perete.aspx?ID_Perete=12
the fountain at the junction of the trail to the reufugiul Co?tila, and the path to the Valley of the White; water about 20 minutes in the Sanctuary Co?tila on the trail for the climb up (be careful, it can be dry at certain times)

You can read the entire description of the wall, the Wall of the Valley, White: http://www.roclimbs.ro/Perete.aspx?ID_Perete=12
The wall has a triangle with the base being the Girdle of the Policandrului, on one side towards the south is formed of a buttress that apart from the Wall of the Valley of the White, and the other side of the Crest of the Giant to the north. The wall is traversed horizontally by the three of circus: Girdle of the Suspended Girdle of the Forbidden, and the Girdle of the Sky. The area under the wall, between the Girdle of the Policandrului, and the portion of the trail to the Refuge of the Co?tila of the Vâlcelul Policandrului (in the south), and the Vâlcelul Rock (north) and extends to a padina in the world, and jnepeni? at the bottom, and the upper part of the slopes of the grass, and the sides of rocky hills.
Information source
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - Walter Kargel, 2000
Stone: conglomerate
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 250 m
Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Hornul Vulturilor With description With topo With picture Coordinates3A, 7- (6+, A0)3 pitches0     Classic route01
2.Surplombelor (Trei surplombe) With description With topo With picture Coordinates4B, 7+ (5+, A0)5 pitches3     Classic route01
3.Fisura Mult Dorită 5 star route With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation6A, 8- (6+/7-, A1)9 pitches4     Classic route125
4.Piticot With picture Coordinates5B, 8 (7+, A0)5 pitches0     Classic route00
5.Fisura Policandrului Fantastic With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates English translation5B, 7+/8- (6, A1)7 pitches5     Classic route85
6.Fluturele de Piatră Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation5B, 7+/8- (6+, A1)7 pitches5     Classic route104
7.Eneida Route impracticable/destroyed With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B, 7+/8- (7-, A0)6 pitches3     Classic route40
8.Fisura Suspendată With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates English translation5A, 7+ (6+, A1)5 pitches4,333333     Classic route126
9.Exordium Ex Abrupto Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates6A4 pitches0     Classic route61
10.Innominata 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation6A, 7+ (7-, A0)7 pitches4,75     Classic route1510
11.Narcisiada With description With picture Coordinates5B, 8+5 pitches0     Classic route00
12.Creasta Vulturilor (Uriaşului) With description With topo With picture Coordinates3B, 7 (6, A0)3 pitches3     Classic route64

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

GPS: N 45° 25' 45.3" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila, you have to cross the Valley of the Co?tilei, and then take the path that goes under your nose have anything to do Little. I don't get the time, we are starting to go up on the left, past all of the trails, and then you turn left slightly at the vâlcelul of rock that comes down from the Wall of the Eagle. Further up the valley to a small auditorium. Vâlcelul continue to the right, obviously, is between the Eagle and the nose have anything to do Little, but the trail climbs to the left, to the jenepeni. Across the shoulder, with the pines, the trail goes down about 20-30 yards from where we start a climb piepti?a and hung over the circus, and the thresholds of the grass, the trees, by the time we get to the base of the Wall, a Vulture, somewhere in the region of the entrance into the Innominata. Girdle which crosses the base of the wall, is called the Girdle of the Policandrului.

That was the beginning of the majority of the routes in the Wall of the Policandrului (except the routes of the Horn of Eagles, where we go through the Girdle of the Air, tic-tac-toe, which we do through the path of the Girdle of the Air-Girdle, Suspended, Surplombelor, where we go through the path of the Girdle of the Air-Girdle of the Banned and the Eagle, in which we go on the Vâlcelul of the Giants (Rock)).
Acces duration: 40 min
Retreat route: There are two obvious possibilities for the descent: still on the Crest of the Vultures, till the Girdle of the Air, or kneeling to the right of the wall (how do we get to it), the Horn of the Giants/Black.

For the Surplombelor, and the Crack is Much to be Desired, the easiest retreat is to continue up the ridge another 20 feet and go out in the path of the Girdle of the Sky.
For the rest of the tracks, and the most obvious one is to go down to the Vâlcelul the Giant, on his legs, requiring multiple boosts. A dose of 40 through the Giant Black (and stop by the booster conduit for the descent of the string), and another 1-2 boosters to short the jumpers or just at the end of the route to get there. The chimney of the Giants, as well as all the other jumpers from the bottom, it can be prevented by the withdrawal of the leading Edge to Low (the leading edge of the left-how we go down, but it's nice to get off the first time with someone who knows the area).

After the last judging, we're looking on the left side, after some time (?ancule?ul), we will make a left onto the trail, passing by the base of the tree, and it was the only route open to him. And then we have no choice, we left the legs on to the base of the tree, on the ground friable and non-friable, and pamântos, or, if you have 2 ropes, and we go right into the right cave, it would be a reminder to long-on for a larch tree with a lot of cords.

We'll be like at the end of the ?ancului Little to where we left off. Within 5 mins we were at the shelter.

Topo

Route distribution

Pictures

Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor

Map

GPS: N 45° 25' 45.3" E 25° 29' 52.9"    
Access route: In the Refuge of the Co?tila, you have to cross the Valley of the Co?tilei, and then take the path that goes under your nose have anything to do Little. I don't get the time, we are starting to go up on the left, past all of the trails, and then you turn left slightly at the vâlcelul of rock that comes down from the Wall of the Eagle. Further up the valley to a small auditorium. Vâlcelul continue to the right, obviously, is between the Eagle and the nose have anything to do Little, but the trail climbs to the left, to the jenepeni. Across the shoulder, with the pines, the trail goes down about 20-30 yards from where we start a climb piepti?a and hung over the circus, and the thresholds of the grass, the trees, by the time we get to the base of the Wall, a Vulture, somewhere in the region of the entrance into the Innominata. Girdle which crosses the base of the wall, is called the Girdle of the Policandrului.

That was the beginning of the majority of the routes in the Wall of the Policandrului (except the routes of the Horn of Eagles, where we go through the Girdle of the Air, tic-tac-toe, which we do through the path of the Girdle of the Air-Girdle, Suspended, Surplombelor, where we go through the path of the Girdle of the Air-Girdle of the Banned and the Eagle, in which we go on the Vâlcelul of the Giants (Rock)).
Retreat route: There are two obvious possibilities for the descent: still on the Crest of the Vultures, till the Girdle of the Air, or kneeling to the right of the wall (how do we get to it), the Horn of the Giants/Black.

For the Surplombelor, and the Crack is Much to be Desired, the easiest retreat is to continue up the ridge another 20 feet and go out in the path of the Girdle of the Sky.
For the rest of the tracks, and the most obvious one is to go down to the Vâlcelul the Giant, on his legs, requiring multiple boosts. A dose of 40 through the Giant Black (and stop by the booster conduit for the descent of the string), and another 1-2 boosters to short the jumpers or just at the end of the route to get there. The chimney of the Giants, as well as all the other jumpers from the bottom, it can be prevented by the withdrawal of the leading Edge to Low (the leading edge of the left-how we go down, but it's nice to get off the first time with someone who knows the area).

After the last judging, we're looking on the left side, after some time (?ancule?ul), we will make a left onto the trail, passing by the base of the tree, and it was the only route open to him. And then we have no choice, we left the legs on to the base of the tree, on the ground friable and non-friable, and pamântos, or, if you have 2 ropes, and we go right into the right cave, it would be a reminder to long-on for a larch tree with a lot of cords.

We'll be like at the end of the ?ancului Little to where we left off. Within 5 mins we were at the shelter.

Weather in Coştila