Today we celebrate 10 years since Abyssus Inexpugnabilis (Ţancul Mic) first ascent.  

Wall Policandrului (Eagles)Peretele Policandrului (Vulturilor) (Wall Policandrului (Eagles))






  • Description and routes
  • Pictures (1)
  • Map
  • Weather

General characteristics


 Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor 

Description - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Wall Policandrului/ eagles is one of four large walls Co?tilei (next to the Valley Wall, the White Walls and the Walls Co?tilei, Calendula). However, of the 4, this is the most compact rocks may be, and because it is more often.

Difference in level: 250 m
Distinction: on the South Wall of the Valley, White, North Ridge eagles/ Uria?ului and Chimney Uria?ului
Sources of water: spring at the intersection of potecii for reufugiul Co?tila and the way for White Valley; in spring for 20 minutes under Shelter Co?tila on the path of ascent (warning, may be dry during certain periods)
Access: Refuge Co?tila
the fountain at the intersection of potecii for reufugiul Co?tila and the way for White Valley; in spring for 20 minutes under Shelter Co?tila on the path of ascent (warning, may be dry during certain periods)

You can read all the details of the wall Wall Valley White here: Wall.aspx?ID_Perete=12
the fountain at the intersection of potecii for reufugiul Co?tila and the way for White Valley; in spring for 20 minutes under Shelter Co?tila on the path of ascent (warning, may be dry during certain periods)

You can read all the details of the wall Wall Valley White here: Wall.aspx?ID_Perete=12
The wall has the shape of a triangular basis, as Brâna Policandrului, from one side to the South, consisting of a backwater, which means from the Wall of the Valley White, and on the other side of the Ridge Uria?ului, to the North. In a wall having horizontally into three brâne: Brâna Suspended Brâna Prohibited and Brâna Air. In the area below the wall, in the range from Brâna Policandrului and part potecii Shelter Co?tila from Vâlcelul Policandrului (South) and Vâlcelul Rocky (North) stretches padina one with the forest and jnepeni? in the lower part and the upper slopes grass and steep rocky sides.
Information source
Muntii Bucegi Drumetie Alpinism Schi - W Kargel, 2000




Stone: conglomerate
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S-E
Altitude: 1750 m
Height: 250 m

Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Hornul Vulturilor (Chimney Eagle) With description With topo With picture Coordinates3A3 pitches0     Technical rock climbing01
2.Surplombelor (Trei surplombe) (Surplombelor (Three overhangs)) With description With topo With picture Coordinates4B5 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
3.Fisura Mult Dorită (Most Desired Crack) 5 star route With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation6A9 pitches4     Technical rock climbing125
4.Piticot (Shorty) With picture Coordinates5B5 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
5.Fisura Policandrului (Policandrului Crack) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates English translation5B7 pitches5     Technical rock climbing87
6.Fluturele de Piatră (The Wallcreeper) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation5B7 pitches5     Technical rock climbing97
7.Eneida (Aeneid) With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B6 pitches3     Technical rock climbing40
8.Fisura Suspendată (Suspended Crack) 5 star route With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates English translation5A5 pitches4     Technical rock climbing118
9.Exordium Ex Abrupto (Exordium Ex Abrupto) Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates6A4 pitches0     Technical rock climbing51
10.Innominata (Innominata) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation6A6 pitches4,5     Technical rock climbing1411
11.Narcisiada (Narcisiada) With picture Coordinates5B5 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
12.Creasta Vulturilor (Uriaşului) (The Crest Of The Eagle (Giant)) With description With topo With picture Coordinates3B3 pitches3     Technical rock climbing64

Access and retreat - Translated with Yandex Tanslate

Access route: Asylum Co?tila crosses the Valley Co?tilei, and then is the path that goes under ?ancul Little. ?anc not pass, we start to climb the left of it, go through all the routes, and then make a left vâlcelul easily in rocky descending from the Wall eagles. We continue climbing until vâlcel in a small amphitheater. Vâlcelul continues to the right, obviously, between the Wall and the eagles ?ancul Small, but our path ascends to the left to jenepeni. We use the shoulder jnepeni, the trail descends about 20-30 meters, from where will start our ascent piepti?a and subjected to a more brâne and thresholds the grass, among the trees, before you get to the base of the Wall eagles, somewhere in the region of the entrance to the Innominata route. Brâna, which crosses the base of the wall is called Brâna Policandrului.

Here begins the most runs at the Wall Policandrului (less routes-Th, of the eagles, where we are using Brâna Air, Piticot, whose entrance we make along the path from Brâna Air-Brâna Suspended Surplombelor, where we walk through the path Brâna Air-Brâna Prohibited and the Crest of eagles, in which we embark on Vâlcelul Uria?ilor (Rocky)).
Acces duration: 40 min
Retreat route: There are two obvious possible origins: continuation of the Ridge to eagles Brâna Airlines or descent on the right wall (as we rise thereto), on the Chimney Uria?ilor/Black.

Surplombelor to track and Crack Than Desired, the easiest conclusion to continue to go up on the ridge another 20 feet, and we reach out Brâna Air.
For the remaining routes, the most convenient, we descend to Vâlcelul Uria?ilor, on legs, requires more rapeluri. Booster 40m through the Chimney Uria?ilor/Black (which has a station and amplifier staging for the descent with one chord) and another 1-2 rapeluri short on this or even on the exit of the route to get to the Pipes. Chimney Uria?ilor, and other useful below, can be avoided by removing the Edge with Jnepeni (short side on the left as we descend, but it is good to we descend for the first time with someone who knows the area).

After the last saritoare look on the left side after ?anc (?ancule?ul), are we going to do left on the path, moving on its basis, and the only route open to him. Then we have a choice, keep going left, on foot, on the field and in loose pamântos, or, if we have 2 ropes, we make right click in the right grotei, and we give the helm a long with a lot zada cordeline.

Ajunem thus, at the end ?ancului Little from where I left. In 5 min we are at the Shelter.

Topo

Topo

Peretele Policandrului (Vulturilor)



Route distribution


Pictures


Liniile Traseelor din Peretele Vulturilor

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: Asylum Co?tila crosses the Valley Co?tilei, and then is the path that goes under ?ancul Little. ?anc not pass, we start to climb the left of it, go through all the routes, and then make a left vâlcelul easily in rocky descending from the Wall eagles. We continue climbing until vâlcel in a small amphitheater. Vâlcelul continues to the right, obviously, between the Wall and the eagles ?ancul Small, but our path ascends to the left to jenepeni. We use the shoulder jnepeni, the trail descends about 20-30 meters, from where will start our ascent piepti?a and subjected to a more brâne and thresholds the grass, among the trees, before you get to the base of the Wall eagles, somewhere in the region of the entrance to the Innominata route. Brâna, which crosses the base of the wall is called Brâna Policandrului.

Here begins the most runs at the Wall Policandrului (less routes-Th, of the eagles, where we are using Brâna Air, Piticot, whose entrance we make along the path from Brâna Air-Brâna Suspended Surplombelor, where we walk through the path Brâna Air-Brâna Prohibited and the Crest of eagles, in which we embark on Vâlcelul Uria?ilor (Rocky)).
Retreat route: There are two obvious possible origins: continuation of the Ridge to eagles Brâna Airlines or descent on the right wall (as we rise thereto), on the Chimney Uria?ilor/Black.

Surplombelor to track and Crack Than Desired, the easiest conclusion to continue to go up on the ridge another 20 feet, and we reach out Brâna Air.
For the remaining routes, the most convenient, we descend to Vâlcelul Uria?ilor, on legs, requires more rapeluri. Booster 40m through the Chimney Uria?ilor/Black (which has a station and amplifier staging for the descent with one chord) and another 1-2 rapeluri short on this or even on the exit of the route to get to the Pipes. Chimney Uria?ilor, and other useful below, can be avoided by removing the Edge with Jnepeni (short side on the left as we descend, but it is good to we descend for the first time with someone who knows the area).

After the last saritoare look on the left side after ?anc (?ancule?ul), are we going to do left on the path, moving on its basis, and the only route open to him. Then we have a choice, keep going left, on foot, on the field and in loose pamântos, or, if we have 2 ropes, we make right click in the right grotei, and we give the helm a long with a lot zada cordeline.

Ajunem thus, at the end ?ancului Little from where I left. In 5 min we are at the Shelter.

Weather in Coştila




Last routes climbed in Peretele Policandrului (Vulturilor)

Fisura Policandrului 5B, 6 A1 (7+/8-)

Follows a natural line, mainly on cracks, having a small roof on the middle of the route. Unfortunately the fixed protection is old and not always trustworthy.
    Constantinescu Anita - 11.11.2018

Innominata 6A, 7- A0 (7+)

Best route in Eagles Wall, and one of the best in Costila Massif.
    Alexandru Popa - 22.09.2018

Fisura Mult Dorită 6A, 6+/7- A1 (8-)

One of the classics at Coştila. Many attempts were made until it was first climbed, having to hammer big tree trunks in the big crack.
    Chereches CristianBercean Ioan - 12.08.2018