Today we celebrate 74 years since Muchia lui Ivan (Valea lui Ivan) first ascent.  

White Valley WallPeretele Văii Albe (White Valley Wall)






  • Description and routes
  • Pictures (4)
  • Map
  • Weather

General characteristics


 Peretele Văii Albe 

Description

Peretele Văii Albe [The White Valley Wall] is the highest rock climbing wall in the country. An obvious appearance from the city of Bușteni, the wall represents the south face of Coștila Mountain, part of Bucegi Massive.

Height: 350m
Geographical delimitation: from Circurile Văii Albe (the amphitheaters of White Valley) to the White Valley Ridge (on the Large Edge of Coștila).
Water: there are 2 springs. One at the intersection of the path leading to Coștila Hut with the trail leading to the White Valley (unamarked trails) and another 20 min under the Coștila Hut, on the trail leading to it (the second spring might be dried in some periods)
Access: from Bușteni city, walk towards the Coștila Hut and from there towards Circurile Văii Albe
Descent: on one of the following options
Short history:
Around 1963 the mathematician Ciprian Foiaș solo climbed from La Verdeață clearing (entrance in the White Valley) the wall leading to Circul I (1st amphiteatre of the White Valley Wall) and from there the routes Eftimie Croitoru and Dinamo from Santinela Blidului until reaching the Bucegi Mountains Plateau. He covered a total of 900m altitude difference, calling his achievement "the White Valley Wall Integral"
Information source
http://www.scrigroup.com/geografie/Trasee-in-Costila-Peretele-Vai95375.php
Walter Kargel




Stone: conglomerate
Accommodation: Coştila Refuge
Orientation: S
Altitude: 1900 m
Height: 350 m

Select:  

Routes  

Nr.    Name    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Diaries    Climbs    
1.Xibalba (Xibalba) Coordinates7-9 pitches0     Technical rock climbing21
2.Faţa vestică a Pintenului Văii Albe - Şistoaca vestică (The face of the western Spur of the Valley White - Șistoaca western) With description With topo With picture Coordinates2B6 pitches0     Technical rock climbing10
3.Faţa vestică a Pintenului Văii Albe - ieşire în Brâna Mare a Coştilei (The face of the western Spur of the Valley White - out in the Girdle of the High Coștilei) With description With topo Coordinates3B6+5 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
4.Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe (The Edge Of The Spur Of The Valley White) With description With topo Coordinates4A6 pitches0     Technical rock climbing01
5.Faţa sud-estică a Pintenului Văii Albe (Front of the south-eastern Spur of the Valley White) With description Coordinates5B8 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
6.Fisura Pintenului Văii Albe (The Crack Of The Spur Of The Valley White) With description With topo Coordinates5A8 pitches0     Technical rock climbing01
7.Traseul Dinamo '69 (The Route Dinamo '69) With topo Coordinates5B8 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
8.Fisura Verde (Crack Green) With description With topo Coordinates5B9 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
9.Fisura Albă (Crack White) With description Coordinates6A6 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
10.Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru (Soldier Hero Eftimie Croitoru) With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates5B10 pitches3     Technical rock climbing84
11.Fisurile Centrale (Cracks Central) With description With topo With picture Coordinates4A7 pitches0     Technical rock climbing01
12.Traseul XX (Route XX) Unidentified route With description Coordinates0     Technical rock climbing00
13.Fisura Roşie (Red Crack) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation5B10 pitches3     Technical rock climbing101
14.Traseul Central (The Central Route) With topo Coordinates5B10 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
15.Fisura Uitată (Crack Forgotten) With topo Coordinates5B12 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
16.Muchia Brânelor (Edge Brânelor) With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A8 pitches0     Technical rock climbing10
17.Just another fucking day (JAFD) (Just Another Fucking Day) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates English translation7A14 pitches4,5     Technical rock climbing72
18.Traseul Speranţei (Hope Route) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation6B14 pitches5     Technical rock climbing63
19.Ultimatum (Ultimatum) 5 star route With topo With picture Coordinates7A10 pitches0     Technical rock climbing20
20.Memorial Emilian Cristea (Memorial Emilian Cristea) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates7A15 pitches2     Technical rock climbing60
21.Căruţul cu rotile (Bucuria Mişcării) (The wheelchair (Joy of Movement)) With description Coordinates7A10 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
22.Fisura Albastră Directă (Blue Crack Direct) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation6B14 pitches5     Technical rock climbing107
23.Cetatea Eternă (The Eternal City) 5 star route Fantastic With picture Coordinates7A10 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
24.Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea (Blue Crack Cristea variant) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation6A12 pitches4,5     Technical rock climbing136
25.Prinţesei (Princess) With picture Coordinates6A3 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
26.Sărutul Pământului (The Kiss Of The Earth) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates7A11 pitches4     Technical rock climbing62
27.Diedrul Pupezei (Pupezei Dihedral) 5 star route With description With topo With picture Coordinates English translation6A12 pitches4     Technical rock climbing51
28.Lespezi (Slabs) With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A10 pitches3     Technical rock climbing135
29.Bator şi Fefeleaga (Bator and Fefeleaga) Coordinates4A6 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
30.Tremurici (Munchies) With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A4 pitches0     Technical rock climbing00
31.Fisura cu Brâne (The crack with the Circus) With picture Coordinates0     Technical rock climbing00
32.Traversarea Peretelui (Crossing The Wall) Unidentified route With description Coordinates5B0     Technical rock climbing00

Access and retreat

Access route: From Coștila Hut we continue on the trail towards Brâna Aeriană - Creasta Văii Albe. When you get to the point called La Pândă, a grass platform (if you reached a chain, you passed by already, descend 15-20 meters), continue on the path ascending to the left, leaving behind the Vâlcelul Pietros Wall. The path is steep, leading through grassy slabs at the base of a wall. Overpass several exposed sections, traverse a small couloir and descend the grassy plain leading to Circurile Văii Albe.
Acces duration: 2h30m
Retreat route: A part of the routes top out in Creasta Văii Albe (White Valley Ridge) and another part exit into Brâna Mare a Coştilei. For those that exit into Brâna Mare a Coștilei, go right towards Hornul lui Gelepeanu and the White Valley Ridge.

On the White Valley Ridge descend on the obvious trail (unmarked). As you descend, when the terrain becomes steeper, there are several red bolts you can use in case you are tired or there is bad weather. Slowly we get into a small saddle equpied with chains. It is here Brâna Aeriană starts. Traverse the ledge to the left, towards an obvious grassy ridge. Once you get on the other side, start descending on the steep grassy terrain that will lead you towards the Bușteni city. There is an option to rappel 50m from the middle of the ledge (using a red bolt), sparing you the first part of the exposed terrain.

We continue descending on the unmarked trail, paying attention as, after another long steep section equiped with chains, Vâlcelul Policandrului, we have to turn right in the forest (not continue directly downwards). We descend the last muddy couloir equiped with chains
and we reach La Pândă and the crossroads with the approach route. From here it takes another 30 minutes to reach Coștila Hut.
Retreat duration: 2h30m

Topo

Topo

topo trasee alpinism Peretele Văii Albe, plan de ansamblu



Route distribution


Pictures


Peretele Văii Albe

Map



GPS: N 4,54310419720042E+16°0.0' E 2,5501037214653E+16°0.0'    
Access route: From Coștila Hut we continue on the trail towards Brâna Aeriană - Creasta Văii Albe. When you get to the point called La Pândă, a grass platform (if you reached a chain, you passed by already, descend 15-20 meters), continue on the path ascending to the left, leaving behind the Vâlcelul Pietros Wall. The path is steep, leading through grassy slabs at the base of a wall. Overpass several exposed sections, traverse a small couloir and descend the grassy plain leading to Circurile Văii Albe.
Retreat route: A part of the routes top out in Creasta Văii Albe (White Valley Ridge) and another part exit into Brâna Mare a Coştilei. For those that exit into Brâna Mare a Coștilei, go right towards Hornul lui Gelepeanu and the White Valley Ridge.

On the White Valley Ridge descend on the obvious trail (unmarked). As you descend, when the terrain becomes steeper, there are several red bolts you can use in case you are tired or there is bad weather. Slowly we get into a small saddle equpied with chains. It is here Brâna Aeriană starts. Traverse the ledge to the left, towards an obvious grassy ridge. Once you get on the other side, start descending on the steep grassy terrain that will lead you towards the Bușteni city. There is an option to rappel 50m from the middle of the ledge (using a red bolt), sparing you the first part of the exposed terrain.

We continue descending on the unmarked trail, paying attention as, after another long steep section equiped with chains, Vâlcelul Policandrului, we have to turn right in the forest (not continue directly downwards). We descend the last muddy couloir equiped with chains
and we reach La Pândă and the crossroads with the approach route. From here it takes another 30 minutes to reach Coștila Hut.

Weather in Coştila




Last routes climbed in Peretele Văii Albe

Just another fucking day (JAFD) 7A, 7+/8- A0 (8+/9-)

Considered the longest multi-pitch route in Romania, JAFD is a hard modern route in the highest wall of Bucegi Mountains. 14 pitches, conglomerate rock, a mix of sports & trad climbing protection.
    Vasile Dumitrică - 21.09.2018

Traseul Speranţei 6B, 7- A1 (9-)

One of the best climbs in White Valley Wall, following a natural and beautiful line. Unfortunately the route has less fixed gear than it had in its' first decades, seeing less climbs in the last years.
    Constantinescu Anita - 08.09.2018