Rock climbing in Peretele Văii Albe, Coştila

10 yeas ago, Nicolae Dobre was leaving us. Today we celebrate 64 years since Fisura Margaretelor (Peretele din Vâlcelul lui Theodoru (Vâlcelul Ascuns)) first ascent

Peretele Văii Albe

ClimbRomania > Routes > Bucegi > Coştila > Peretele Văii Albe

Description and routes
Timeline
Pictures (4)
Map
Weather

General characteristics

Description

Peretele Văii Albe [The White Valley Wall] is the highest rock climbing wall in the country. An obvious appearance from the city of Bușteni, the wall represents the south face of Coștila Mountain, part of Bucegi Massive.

Height: 350m
Geographical delimitation: from Circurile Văii Albe (the amphitheaters of White Valley) to the White Valley Ridge (on the Large Edge of Coștila).
Water: there are 2 springs. One at the intersection of the path leading to Coștila Hut with the trail leading to the White Valley (unamarked trails) and another 20 min under the Coștila Hut, on the trail leading to it (the second spring might be dried in some periods)
Access: from Bușteni city, walk towards the Coștila Hut and from there towards Circurile Văii Albe
Descent: on one of the following options

Creasta Văii Albe - Brâna Aeriană - Coştila Hut;
Brâna Mare - Scoruşilor Valley - Strunga şi Gălbenelelor Valley - Coştila Hut
Brâna Mare - Hornul Coamei -Gălbenelelor Valley - Coştila Hut;
Hornul lui Gelepeanu - Bucegi Mountains Plateau - Babele Hut - cable car to Bușteni

Short history:
Around 1963 the mathematician Ciprian Foiaș solo climbed from La Verdeață clearing (entrance in the White Valley) the wall leading to Circul I (1st amphiteatre of the White Valley Wall) and from there the routes Eftimie Croitoru and Dinamo from Santinela Blidului until reaching the Bucegi Mountains Plateau. He covered a total of 900m altitude difference, calling his achievement "the White Valley Wall Integral"

Information source

http://www.scrigroup.com/geografie/Trasee-in-Costila-Peretele-Vai95375.php
Walter Kargel

Stone: conglomerate

Accommodation: Coştila Refuge

Orientation: S

Altitude: 1900 m

Height: 350 m

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Show routes

All With description With pictures With topo Recommended

Routes

Nr.	Name	Grade	Length	Beauty	Type	Diaries	Climbs
1.	Xibalba	7-	9 pitches	0	Classic route	2	1
2.	Faţa vestică a Pintenului Văii Albe - Şistoaca vestică	2B	6 pitches	0	Classic route	1	1
3.	Faţa vestică a Pintenului Văii Albe - ieşire în Brâna Mare a Coştilei	3B	6+5 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
4.	Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe	4A	6 pitches	0	Classic route	0	1
5.	Faţa sud-estică a Pintenului Văii Albe	5B, 7-	8 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
6.	Fisura Pintenului Văii Albe	5A, (5, A1)	8 pitches	0	Classic route	0	1
7.	Traseul Dinamo '69	5B, 7+ (6+/7-, A1)	8 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
8.	Fisura Verde	5B, 6+ (6, A1)	9 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
9.	Fisura Albă	6A, 7	6 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
10.	Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru	5B, 7+ (6/6+, A0)	10 pitches	3	Classic route	8	2
11.	Tărâmul Celălalt		9 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
12.	Fisura Roşie	5B, 6+/7- (6+, A0)	10 pitches	3	Classic route	13	3
13.	Fisurile Centrale	4A, 6	7 pitches	0	Classic route	0	1
14.	Traseul XX			0	Classic route	0	0
15.	Traseul Central	5B	10 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
16.	Fisura Uitată	5B	12 pitches	0	Classic route	1	0
17.	Muchia Brânelor	5A, 6	8 pitches	0	Classic route	1	0
18.	Just another fucking day (JAFD)	7A, 8+/9- (7+/8-, A0)	14 pitches	4,5	Classic route	7	3
19.	Traseul Speranţei	6B, 9- (7-, A1)	14 pitches	5	Classic route	11	9
20.	Ultimatum	7A	10 pitches	0	Classic route	2	0
21.	Memorial Emilian Cristea	7A, 9+ (7, A1)	15 pitches	3,5	Classic route	8	1
22.	Căruţul cu rotile (Bucuria Mişcării)	10-/10	7 pitches	0	Sport climbing	2	0
23.	Fisura Albastră Directă	6B, 8+ (7-, A1)	14 pitches	2,5	Classic route	18	8
24.	Cetatea Eternă	7A	10 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
25.	Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea	6A, 7- (6+/7-, A0)	12 pitches	4,666666	Classic route	23	11
26.	Prinţesei	6A, 7+	3 pitches	0	Classic route	1	1
27.	Sărutul Pământului	7A, III/RS3, 8/8+ (7/7+, A0)	11 pitches	4	Classic route	9	4
28.	Diedrul Pupezei	6A, 7+ (6+/7-, A0)	12 pitches	4	Classic route	7	3
29.	Diedrul Pupezei - varianta originală	6A, 7+	11 pitches	0	Classic route	1	1
30.	Lespezi	5A, 6+ (5/5+, A0)	10 pitches	3	Classic route	21	10
31.	Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat	R3, 7+	470	0	Trad	1	0
32.	Bator şi Fefeleaga	4A, 6-	6 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
33.	Tremurici	5A, 7+ (7-, A0)	4 pitches	0	Classic route	0	0
34.	Fisura cu Brâne			0	Classic route	0	0
35.	Traversarea Peretelui	5B		0	Classic route	0	0

Access and retreat

GPS: N 45° 25' 32.6" E 25° 29' 44.4"

Access route: From Coștila Hut we continue on the trail towards Brâna Aeriană - Creasta Văii Albe. When you get to the point called La Pândă, a grass platform (if you reached a chain, you passed by already, descend 15-20 meters), continue on the path ascending to the left, leaving behind the Vâlcelul Pietros Wall. The path is steep, leading through grassy slabs at the base of a wall. Overpass several exposed sections, traverse a small couloir and descend the grassy plain leading to Circurile Văii Albe.

Acces duration: 2h30m

Retreat route: A part of the routes top out in Creasta Văii Albe (White Valley Ridge) and another part exit into Brâna Mare a Coştilei. For those that exit into Brâna Mare a Coștilei, go right towards Hornul lui Gelepeanu and the White Valley Ridge.

On the White Valley Ridge descend on the obvious trail (unmarked). As you descend, when the terrain becomes steeper, there are several red bolts you can use in case you are tired or there is bad weather. Slowly we get into a small saddle equpied with chains. It is here Brâna Aeriană starts. Traverse the ledge to the left, towards an obvious grassy ridge. Once you get on the other side, start descending on the steep grassy terrain that will lead you towards the Bușteni city. There is an option to rappel 50m from the middle of the ledge (using a red bolt), sparing you the first part of the exposed terrain.

We continue descending on the unmarked trail, paying attention as, after another long steep section equiped with chains, Vâlcelul Policandrului, we have to turn right in the forest (not continue directly downwards). We descend the last muddy couloir equiped with chains and we reach La Pândă and the crossroads with the approach route. From here it takes another 30 minutes to reach Coștila Hut.

Retreat duration: 2h30m

Topo

Route distribution

Traseu clasic

Fisurile Centrale 4A, 6

Date: 06.10.1940
First ascent: Ionel Coman, Oskar Schöbesch

Traseu clasic

Fisura Pintenului Văii Albe 5A, (5, A1)

Date: 04.08.1946
First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Emilian Cristea

Traseu clasic

Soldat Erou Eftimie Croitoru 5B, 7+ (6/6+, A0)

Date: 01.07.1952
First ascent: Aurel Irimia, Emilian Cristea, Radu Constantin

Traseu clasic

Fisura Albastră varianta Cristea 6A, 7- (6+/7-, A0)

Date: 04-06.08.1952
First ascent: Emilian Cristea, Aurel Irimia, Radu Constantin

Traseu clasic

Fisura Verde 5B, 6+ (6, A1)

Date: 23.08.1954
First ascent: Walter Kargel, Andrei Ghiţescu

Traseu clasic

Lespezi 5A, 6+ (5/5+, A0)

Date: 07.10.1954
First ascent: Aurel Irimia, László Karácsonyi, Victor Măciucă

Traseu clasic

Muchia Brânelor 5A, 6

Date: 14.06.1955
First ascent: Dan Lubenescu, Andrei Ghiţescu

Traseu clasic

Muchia Pintenului Văii Albe 4A

Traseul aerian şi foarte expus urmează cu mici deviații muchia pe alocuri îngustă şi ferestruită ce se desprinde spre sud, din Pintenul Văii Albe, în vârful căruia ia sfârşit după un parcurs care măsoară şase lungimi de coardă.

Date: 02.10.1955
First ascent: Aurel Irimia, László Karácsonyi

Traseu clasic

Fisura Roşie 5B, 6+/7- (6+, A0)

Date: 13.10.1955
First ascent: Emil Fomino, Ion Ionescu, Dorin Grigorescu

Traseu clasic

Traversarea Peretelui 5B

Date: 10-14.10.1955
First ascent: Aurel Irimia, László Karácsonyi, Victor Măciucă, Matei Schenn, Roland Welkens

Traseu clasic

Fisura Albastră Directă 6B, 8+ (7-, A1)

Cel mai cunoscut traseu de alpinism din România. O fisură impozantă care veghează orașul Bușteni din Peretele Văii Albe, cel mai înalt perete de cățărare din țară.