Last climbs

Creasta Coştila-Gălbenele (Coştila-Gălbenele Ridge) 3A, AD, 5- A0 (6)

First ascent: Niculae Baticu, Dan Popescu, Toma Boerescu, Constantin Conteş - 31.05.1936
Climbed by: Victor Anica, Daniel Mihalache - 14.07.2018

One of the most easy and popular climbs at Coştila.  more >>

Hornul dintre Fire (The chimney of the Wires) 1A

Climbed by: Andrei Badea - 14.07.2018

Allows the lowering rapid of the Valley Marigold main without the need for boosting or bypassing several jumpers large from the same valley in the climb.  more >>

Valea Morarului (The Valley Of Miller's) 1A

Climbed by: Loredana D. etc. - 14.07.2018

The valley of Miller, which separates Miller from Buc?oiul, is a valley of glacial origin, with three buckets wide, separated by steps easily accessible.  more >>

Raza Soarelui (The Radius Of The Sun) 5A, 6 A0 (8-)

First ascent: Iuliu Pop, János Nüber, Constantin Bostan - 1975
Climbed by: Cătălin Creţu - 08.07.2018

LC 1: we Leave on one side fallen, the easy. Then follows a vertical crack, which closes, the steps being in this area.LC 2: climb a few meters straight up, then it starts in a traverseu quite long to the left. At one point there was a step downward, something more difficult. Following the passage of an edge and the entry into a bavarian clear,...  more >>

Updated routes

Valea Priponului (Valley Priponului) 1A

updated by Rupi in 13.07.2018

"For those who want to come down on You Priponului: If in the bottom of the valley, following a potecuta what goes around the thread valley on the right, you arrive at a static rope fixed above an area f steep, it's best to back 100-200m back on potecuta that you came up in the thread valley, and descend directly on the thread (with little...  more >>

Raza Soarelui (The Radius Of The Sun) 5A, 6 A0 (8-)

First ascent: Iuliu Pop, János Nüber, Constantin Bostan - 1975
updated by Ad Min in 09.07.2018

LC 1: we Leave on one side fallen, the easy. Then follows a vertical crack, which closes, the steps being in this area.LC 2: climb a few meters straight up, then it starts in a traverseu quite long to the left. At one point there was a step downward, something more difficult. Following the passage of an edge and the entry into a bavarian clear,...  more >>

Coţofana (Magpie) 5A, 6+  (7/7+)

First ascent: Gheorghe Enache (Genu), László Kerestesz, Petre Gábor, Ştefan Ionescu, Felicia Enache - 1987
updated by Ad Min in 09.07.2018

LC1 - Departs vertically, through an area of something more buruienoasa. Go next to the tree vertically, across the rapids covered with earth and grass, streamlining very slightly to the right. We follow the line of the pitons which, about 10-15 m, deviates to the left reaching a belay station intermediate made up of two cams connected with the...  more >>

Traseul Balaurului (The Route Of The Dragon) 5A

First ascent: Serban Salcu, Liviu Cosma - 04.11.1981
updated by Ad Min in 06.07.2018

Magazine Romania, Scenic, 2018  more >>

Route of the day/Climber of the day

Muchia Estică (Matei Schenn) (The Eastern Edge (Matthew Schenn)) 4A, 5+ A0 (6+)

Matei Schenn, László Karácsonyi - 16.07.1957

The route passes over the face, easy overhangnta, and further, along the edge of a very narrow and slanted, which would finally take in the Vf. Turnule?ului. First L. C. is followed by a narrow belt, which, at last, to take the number of cracks that are interleaved diagonally, and right on the front of the wall, which surplombeaza easily. In the...  more >>

Matei Schenn

Born in Sibiu on October 19, 1933, Matthew Schenn, as a young worker cooperatives, started the sports activity in the year 1950 the club Will-Sibiu, where he practiced athletics, swimming and tourism. In 1951 he dedicated himself to mountaineering, choosing him as a favorite sport. Under the guidance of coach Thomas Boerescu has made remarkable...  more >>

Video

Fisura Cenuşie (Crack Grey) 4A, 6- A0 (7)

Norbert Hiemesch - 21.08.1957

Video - Silvia Murgescu - 28.08.2010

LC1 - Run on the sequence with the first diedre of the insurance high enough urcîndu second only to Python. ATTENTION! From the second Python does NOT continue up the dihedral, all lines pitons that existing above, but begins a traverse to the right about 10-12 meters. Immediately after the first stomach, which should we use horizontally is Python insurance. There are about 5-7 m is traversed to the right and slightly up to the first redistribution falls into a crack the length of the second. Initially we give more than two pitons very bad, one beaten in the loose area, and the other beaten after a small plate that should come off and which, ciocanita, sounds very dry. 2 m to the right of these two pitons and slightly above the other two pitons combined with cordelina. Here bundles standing hang in Hama.LC2 is Started up, the cracks taricica, slightly tilted to the left with enough insurance. I believe that the passage will have 7 class, in any case, I'm sure more than 6+. The output is two nails the problem. One isn't very hard, and secondly, to learn something more right, moves in all directions. To extinguish failed to put it out, but even morally can't use it. Just above we...  more >>

Repaired routes

Muchia Iepuraşului (The Edge Of The Bunny) 5A, 6 A0 (6+)

First ascent: Viorel Nicolaescu, Nicolae Dini
repaired 22.10.2017

The trail Edge of the Rabbit is considered one of the easiest routes in the Wall of the Animal, the Massif Postavarul. A ridge in places vertical, cliff relatively compact and sufficient insurance cover. Anyway, the peculiarities of the route requires a good preparation and attention, because there are areas more loose or loaded by vegetation.  more >>

Traseul Slăvoacă (Traseul Central din Umărul Gălbenelelor) (The route Slavoaca (the Central Route from the Shoulder of the Marigolds)) 4B, 6- A0 (6+)

First ascent: Radu Slăvoacă, Halina Lascăr - 14.09.1969

repaired by Andrei Holban, Mihai Sava, Mitruţ Arghir - 30.09.2017

LC 1 - Go up the fissure, the first piton is at 5-6m from the departure. The second python is just 2m, hidden among grass and boulders, you have to look for carefully. Climbing is enjoyable, in sprai?uri, the wall being slightly fell. To be continued on a second rift, 1m to the left, where we'll meet and the only anchor mechanical length. After...  more >>

Articles and news

15 common climbing mistakes

Ad Min - 07.09.2017

A selection of 15 common mistakes done equally by beginners or more experienced ones.  more >>

Girdle Of The Policandrului

Ad Min - 14.05.2018

Girdle of the Policandrului suffered another destruction, the breaking of the first common length of the routes Chandelier, Much to be Desired, the Butterfly Stone, and Aeneid. The rupture was caused by a rupture in the upper part of the wall what has damaged the Crack Suspended, the Aeneid, and possibly the Butterfly and the Stone.  more >>