Today we celebrate 86 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 2 years since Memorial Páll Endre (Heaven and Hell) (Piatra Altarului) first ascent

Viorel Nicolaescu




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  • Profil
  • Timeline
  • Pictures (11)
  • Video (3)

Profile Viorel Nicolaescu - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


   Born: 06.09.1939, Bucharest, romania

Born in Bucharest, on 6 September 1939. He started climbing relatively late, at 25 years of age, to accompany them on the H. The School Foia?, John Chiciorea, Alexander Statescu.
A medical doctor by profession, with a good general education, he realized very early on that the ca?aratura the key to success is practice. To this end, and to get to know the mountain, he climbed up, his head or the first mate, all the tracks - starting with the easy ones and then the classic ones and ending with the more difficult ones.
He asked, in 1972, to the "Health" of Bucharest. Since 1975, made a lot of firsts.
Climbing solo a Rift of Blue in a 10 and a half hours. On the 23rd of august 1975, together with a Michael Pupeza (the head change) through one after the other, paths of Hope (for five hours), The Blue (four hours and 20 minutes), The More you Want, (about an hour and 20 minutes).
Overseas
In the caucasus, the Little Sciurkovski, north wall, 5, of the storm Coliban, Abel Ri?i?an, Nae Poet, and Ion Zincenco, with four bivouacs on the wall.

The alps
In 1979, Dad Badille US via the Cassin, the TD jazz institute Serghiescu, etc.the.
The Grand Capucin, the route Bonatti., THIS, with, Emil, Coliban
Le Marteau du Phys, ED, and Denise Escande, 65 years of age, the secretary of the Alpine Club, the French. The fourth climb of the route, taking the road to a ceiling of 22 feet
The crossing of the Charmoz-Grepin, D, George Iu?co
Direct Us in the West of the Petit Dru, ED, for this post Serghiescu.

In 1985 and 1986, in paris, with the Tapiru, get a lot of tracks, some of which include:
- Pyramide du Tacul, WE are the Wall (Pinelli-Saladini)
IS the Wall (Ottoz)
- Pillier Boccalate
- Pillier Gervasutti
- The fisure Brown of the Aiguille Blaitiere
- Arette from the Cosmique
- Not allowed to Wish the Aquille du Pouce, according to a press considering it to be the most beautiful ride you made.

In the United States, he has climbed many routes in Yosemite, Tuolomne Meadows, the Lover's Lips, eldorado Canyon, Boulder Canyon, and the Gunks.

Interview this document was elaborated by Gabriel Bazacliu, together with Mihai Andrei, Ca?an: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hy3MCNjw0tw


Information source
Blog Mircea Ordean
- Interviu luat de Marian Anghel lui Dan Vasilescu (Alpinet)
Poză - arhivă Viorel Nicolaescu - https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1038155116277334.1073741837.100002485662298&type=3


First ascents/Bolted routes

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Innominata 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation6A, 6b+/6c (6a+, A0)7 pitches4,75     Classic routePeretele Policandrului (Vulturilor)
2.Scorpionul 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video With comments Coordinates6A, 6b+ (6a+, A0)9 pitches4,333333     Classic routePeretele Coştilei
3.Poseidon 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates5A, 6a+ (6a+, A0)6 pitches4     Classic routePeretele Coştilei
4.Aripa Stângă With picture Coordinates5B6 pitches0     Classic routeFaţa Surplombelor (Peretele Marelui H)
5.Muchia Panseluţei Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates3B, 5c (4c/4c+, A0)5 pitches4,25     Classic routeFaţa Hornurilor
6.Exodus With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B, 7a (6a, A1)7 pitches4     Classic routeFaţa Hornurilor
7.Muchia Căprioarei 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video With comments Coordinates4B, 6a (5a, A0)5-6 pitches4,333333     Classic routePeretele Animalelor (Itvig)
8.Muchia Iepuraşului With description With topo With picture With video With comments Coordinates5A, 6a (5c, A0)5 pitches4,166666     Classic routePeretele Animalelor (Itvig)
9.Lupul cel Rău 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation5B, 6a+ (6a, A0)5 pitches5     Classic routePeretele Animalelor (Itvig)
10.Mielul cel Blând 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates5A, 6a+ (6a, A0)3 pitches4,5     Classic routePeretele Animalelor (Itvig)
11.Calipso Route impracticable/destroyed With description With topo Coordinates6A10 pitches0     Classic routeFaţa Înaltă
12.Ulise 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates6A, 7b (6a, A1)8 pitches4,5     Classic routeFaţa Înaltă
13.Diedrele din Faţa Înaltă With topo With picture Coordinates5B, 7a0     Classic routeFaţa Înaltă
14.Muchia Salamandrei (Dezamăgirilor) Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates4A, 6a+/6b (5b, A0)4 pitches5     Classic routeAboland

Classic route

Lupul cel Rău 5B, 6a+ (6a, A0)

Lupul cel rău (the Bad Wolf) is the longest and most popular route in Peretele Animalelor (the Wall of Animals). A series of dihedrals and beautiful obstacles, not very difficult and well protected.

1975
Classic route

Innominata 6A, 6b+/6c (6a+, A0)

Best route in Eagles Wall, and one of the best in Costila Massif.

1976
Classic route
Classic route

Pictures


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Discover alpinist videos


Video - Mihai-Andrei Caţan - 27.01.2020

Video - Mihai Sava - 11.09.2019

Video - Viorel Nicolaescu - 04.03.2014



Last first ascents of Viorel Nicolaescu climbed

Lupul cel Rău 5B, 6a+ (6a, A0)

Lupul cel rău (the Bad Wolf) is the longest and most popular route in Peretele Animalelor (the Wall of Animals). A series of dihedrals and beautiful obstacles, not very difficult and well protected.
    andrei-liviu Mocanu - 03.10.2021

Innominata 6A, 6b+/6c (6a+, A0)

Best route in Eagles Wall, and one of the best in Costila Massif.
    Bogdan Lazăr - 27.09.2021