6 yeas ago, Michael Buchholtzer was leaving us. Today we celebrate 60 years since Traseul Marian Nicolae (Fisura întreruptă din Colţii Gemeni) (Amfiteatrul Colţilor Gemeni) first ascent

Valentin Garner




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Profile Valentin Garner - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


   Born: 27.11.1932, Sibiu

He was born in Sibiu on November 27, 1932. He grew up and he grew up on Valea Sadului. In the company of his father, a passionate man of the mountain, he met the beauties of nature, colindînd first in the mountains of Cibin—Lotrioara. In 1948, being a student at Oradea, he worked at the association of Tourism popular - A. T. P., whose local chief was Alexander Somogy. For five years, this group of tourists-cavers walked in the Apuseni Mountains. Participated, in 1951, to research the entrance to the Bodfia in the company of the well-known researcher caver Tibor Jurisak. Ending his studies in 1953 he was assigned to the Plant March 6 in the town of Zarnesti. She enrolled in the climbing of the association of the Metal-Zarnesti, the newly founded, where he served one year, after which it was legitimized for the association of Cellulose-Zarnesti, whose coach was Traian Flucu?. With this association he participated in the republican championship of climbing in 1956, occupying the 3rd place (Traian Flucu?, Valentin Garner and Gheorghe Pop). In 1957 he returned to the association of the Metal-Zarnesti, transformed into the association of Energy and then the Glove compartment. Under the guidance of new coach, Emil Fomino, Valentin Garner has reached true maturity of the climber. After the departure of Fomino, he stayed as an instructor of the department, and from 1962 as a coach. Outside activity instructor and coach, participated in competitions, alpiniade and cups. Valentin Garner has made 29 awards alpine, in the head chord, the assistant or head changed.
Premieres winter:
February 1957 — Ridge Eagle—Bucegi (Valentin Garner and Putz Werner);
February 1957 — the Girdle of the middle of Piatra Craiului mountains, at the Valley of the Crack and up in the Saddle of the Ass (Valentin Garner and Mircea Popescu; he went four days, with overnights in caves);
January 1960 — Fagaras Mountains, Muchia Tarî?a the way to the Top Tarî?a (Valentin Garner, George Christmas and Lazarus Vilmo?);
Ridge Podragelului (Valentin Garner, George Christmas and Lazarus Vilmo?);
February 1961 — the Piatra Craiului mountains, the Crest of the Dwarf (Valentin Garner, Gheorghe Craciun and Stefan Ciortan);
1957 Crest of the Southern Carpathians (Valentin Garner, Florin Mihailescu, Ion Cojaru and Nicholas Cojanu, in sixteen and a half days, a record unsurpassed by anyone until now - 1984).
Work abroad:
Czechoslovakia: 1965 — the route of the Marine, in Risy, grade V (Valentin Garner with a Czech);
The crest of the damn Thing, IV degree (Valentin Garner and Stefan Ciortan, head, changed);
1969 — the Tatra, the northern wall of the Ganeg, grade VI (Wolfgang Ginzel and Valentine Garner, the head of the chord);
the route Oschelpanzer, grade VI (Valentin Garner and a Czech, the head changed);
1974 — Ceski ray — Mountains of the Elbe (Valentin Garner with climbers czechs and R. D. G.);
1979, in Ceski ray (Valentin Garner stepped up, with the czechs, 17 routes, of which in the area of SKA-LAK, 1. Devils Vez (Devils sporo), grade VII—Crack; 2. Kapelnic (Sesghke weg), grade VII; 3. Majak (Merl-eke), the degree VII, the edge; in the Mountains of the Elbe: 1. Talwachter—Ost-kante, grade VI; 2. Ekerweg, grade VII, Karl Heinz Syptetz; 3. Hoher Torstein—Sudwand, grade VII B; and 4. Falkenstein—Sudriss, grade VII;
1970, Turkey: the northern Glacier of Erciyes (Ionel Coman and Valentin Garner);
1975, Hinducu?, Afghanistan (Ionel Coman, Anton Demeter, Valentin Garner and Zoltán Kovács);
1977, Austria — the Wilder Kaiser, the route diretissima of Christaturm, grade VI (Valentine's day Garner, Leo Schlechter and Anton Demeter);
Fleischbank—Ostwand, the degree V (Valentin Garner and Richard Mitterer);
Grossglockner—Pal-lavicinirinne (Valentin Garner, Richard Mitterer, Leo Schlechter and Anton Demeter);
Strahlhorn, Adlerhorn, Rinpfischhorn—Switzerland (Valentin Garner, Anton Demeter and Thomas Trubswetter);
1977, France: Mont Blanc, from the Dome du Gouter, the Mer de Glace (Valentin Garner and Anton Demeter).
For her work as a climber, Valentine's day Garner received the title of master of sports in mountaineering.


Information source
Pe crestele Carpaţilor - Niculae Baticu, Radu Țițeica, 1984
Sursă foto - Ionel Coman - Aventura H 75.
Foto - Nelu Săcărea - Ultima lungime
Foto la aniversare Salvamont Zarnesti


First ascents

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Creasta Generalului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video With comments Coordinates3B, 6+ (4, A0)10 pitches4,666666     Classic routeCheile Râşnovului
2.Traseul IzvoruluiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture5B9 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Padinei Închise
3.Traseul SurplombelorAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video6A, (6+, A1)9 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Padinei Închise
4.Creasta cu SmirdarAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului2A8 pitches0     Classic routePadina Închisă
5.Hornul FestivaluluiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture With comments Coordinates3A3 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Galben al Dianei
6.Fisura NordicăAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A, 7 (6-, A0)5 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mare al Dianei
7.Traseul Floarea de ColţAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo Coordinates5B5 pitches5     Classic routeTurnul Mare al Dianei
8.Lespezile Padinei PopiiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture With comments Coordinates5A, 7/7+5 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mare al Dianei
9.Traseul 23 AugustAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates5A, 8+ (6+, A1)5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Mare din Padina Popii
10.Traseul GenţianeiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture Coordinates5A5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Mare din Padina Popii
11.Traseul AlveolelorAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A4 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Mare din Padina Popii
12.Traseul Sângele VoiniculuiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture Coordinates5A3 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Mare din Padina Popii
13.Fisurile CentraleAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture5A, 8/8+ (6+, A0)6 pitches0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
14.Fisura CioriiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului Coordinates3B, 6+2 pitches0     Classic routeFântâna lui Botorog
15.Traseul Finala '64 With description With topo With video5B, 7+ (A1/A2)4 pitches3     Classic routePeretele Bardosului
16.Traseul Viperei Fantastic With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A, 7-/7 (6-, A1)4 pitches5     Classic routeAboland
17.VitezomaniaAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With picture Coordinates62 pitches0     Classic routeMagma

First winter ascents

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Creasta Vulturilor (Uriaşului) With description With topo With picture Coordinates3B, 7 (6, A0)3 pitches3     Classic routePeretele Policandrului (Vulturilor)

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