Today we celebrate 1 year since Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat (Peretele Văii Albe) first ascent

Matei Schenn




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Profile Matei Schenn - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


   Born: 19.10.1933, Sibiu, romania
Deceased: One thousand nine hundred eighty nine

Born in mississippi on October 19, 1933, by Matthew Schenn as a youth worker at the co-op, he started his sports career in the 1950s at the club, the Will of the Sibiu county, where he practiced track and field, tennis, swimming, and hiking. In 1951 it was dedicated to the mountain, choosing it as your favorite sport. Under the guidance of head coach Thomas Players made a lot of progress. He moved to Bucharest where he was active in sports in the same club, being completed, and the preparation, under the guidance of the head coach, Mircea Bogdan, and to the other students. He was selected in the team of the Will of the participant, in 1953, at the first tournament of the ca?aratura of the people's Republic of Romania (R. P. R.) is the championship held in the Tower, Seciului - Mountains (the team was ranked in the 1st place). In the same year, Matthew Schenn has done, and for a first time in the Canyon. In 1955, after completing his military service, he was transferred to the station for the rock climbing club of the C. C. of A., it turned out in the 1960's, in the House of the Officers of Brasov and then to the Athletic Association, the Army Brasov, romania. He's a coach on the Emilian Cristea. By participating in the alpiniade, and the championships of this association, and he and his teammates have won the most titles of champion of the Socialist Republic of Romania (R. S. R) to rock climbing, ca?aratura. As a result of the work of the competition and the results obtained, it has been selected more often in the group of the R. S. a. In 1973, he served as head coach of the youth team, A. S. A., Brasov, romania, between 1965 and 1968, he worked as a volunteer coach in the Sports Club, the University of Bucharest.
He has organized and led the national team, M. A. N., the Pamirs - U. S. S. R back in 1974, when he was made the first time. He has worked as a teacher in the schools, all the schools organized in the framework of the M. A. N. as a monitor at the national schools, organised by the R. T. A. As a methodist minister, he has made contributions to the drafting of the regulations of the competitions, information and videos on rock climbing. In the period from 1970 to 1974 he served as secretary of the College of coaches and the competition. In 1974, the secretary of the Central Committee of the Technical Climbing, and member of the Office of the Federal system.
You know working with the other climbers, my colleagues of the association, to participate in the making of the award, the alpine. Matthew Schenn was acquired in 1969, the title of master of sports in rock-climbing.


Information source
Foto 1 (via Mircea Ordean) - Album aniversar Salvamont 30 de ani
Pe crestele Carpaţilor
- Niculae Baticu, Radu Țițeica, 1984
- Foto 2 Pagina FB Doru Vasilescu
- Foto 4: revista Sport și Tehnică
- In memoriam Matei Schenn


First ascents/Bolted routes

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Creasta Centrală With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Urlătorii Mari
2.Hornul Agăţat With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Urlătorii Mari
3.Aurel Irimia With description With topo With picture Coordinates6A, (7, A1)9 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
4.23 August Route impracticable/destroyed With description With topo With picture Coordinates6B9 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
5.25 Octombrie With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B11 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
6.Muchia Strungii With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B7 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
7.Floarea de Colţi With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B7 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
8.Traseul 0 With description With topo With picture Coordinates4A3 pitches0     Classic routePeretele cu Florile
9.Traseul 1 With description With topo With picture Coordinates4A3 pitches0     Classic routePeretele cu Florile
10.Traseul 2 With description With topo With picture Coordinates4B3 pitches0     Classic routePeretele cu Florile
11.Traseul 4 With description With topo With picture Coordinates4B3 pitches0     Classic routePeretele cu Florile
12.Muchia Înaltă With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A, 7 (6-, A1)4 pitches2     Classic routePeretele cu Florile
13.Fisura de la Grota Lupului Coordinates4B4 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sud-vestic al Crestei cu Zâmbri
14.Hornul din Valea Lupului (Hornul lui Derdelea) Coordinates5B0     Classic routePeretele sud-vestic al Crestei cu Zâmbri
15.Traversarea Peretelui Unidentified route With description Coordinates5B0     Classic routePeretele Văii Albe
16.Muchia din Santinela Blidului Uriaşilor With description With topo With picture Coordinates4B5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Brânei
17.Traseul Viespilor din Găvanul Mic With description With picture Coordinates5A4 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Brânei
18.Traseul Moş Gelepeanu With description With topo With picture Coordinates3B3 pitches2     Classic routePeretele Brânei
19.Traseul Oblic4B0     Classic routePeretele Ţapului
20.Muchia Estică (Matei Schenn) With description With topo With picture Coordinates4A, 6+ (5+, A0)2 pitches0     Classic routeTurnuleţul
21.Fisura Stalactitei4B3 pitches0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
22.Muchia cu Iederă4A3 pitches0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
23.Muchia Cerbului4A2 pitches0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
24.25 Octombrie 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates3B, 6 (5, A0)7 pitches4,5     Classic routeBucura II - Peretele Nord-Estic
25.Traseul TurnuleţuluiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture Coordinates4A4 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Mare din Padina Popii
26.Fisura GalbenăAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description Coordinates5B5 pitches0     Classic routeBrâul Ciorânga Mare
27.Surplomba HornuluiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo Coordinates5B7 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Ciorânga Mare
28.Traseul 3Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With topo With picture3A2 pitches0     Classic routeDegetul lui Călineţ
29.Turnul Porumbeilor With topo Coordinates4B2 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Porumbeilor
30.Traseul din Santinela Peşterii With topo Coordinates4B3 pitches0     Classic routeSantinela Peşterii
31.Traseul Marius With topo Coordinates4B3 pitches0     Classic routeSantinela Peşterii
32.Peretele Scoruş4A, 9- (4+, A1)3 pitches0     Classic routeZona Scoruş
33.Creasta Estică 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates English translation4A, 6 (A0)6 pitches4,75     Classic routePiatra Altarului
34.Faţa Mare With description With topo5A, (A2)9 pitches1     Classic routePeretele Bardosului
35.Hornul Mare 5 star route With description With topo With picture5B, 7/7+ (A1)6 pitches4     Classic routePeretele Bardosului
36.Traseul Armata 5 star route With topo With picture6B, (A2)10 pitches5     Classic routePeretele Bardosului
37.Fisura Strungii cu Mesteacăn With description With topo5B, (A2/A3)8 pitches3     Classic routePeretele Nordic
38.Traseul Intersectat With description With topo With video6B, (7, A2/A3)11 pitches4     Classic routePeretele Pintenilor
39.Hornul Roşu With topo3B, 5 (A1)5 pitches3     Classic routeSuhardul Mic
40.Creasta Hornului Roşu With description With topo3B, 7- (5, A1)4 pitches3     Classic routeSuhardul Mic
41.Faţa Mare din Hornul Roşu With topo3B, 5 (A1)6 pitches1     Classic routeSuhardul Mic

First winter ascents

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Traseul Cerbului With picture5B0     Classic routeSantinela Văii Verzi

Classic route

Creasta Estică 4A, 6 (A0)

An easy route and a classic in the Bicaz Gorge, with beautiful surroundings and perspective the gorge. The route is accessible in all seasons (if you don't mind snow) and is recommended early summer to late autumn.

1952
Classic route
Classic route
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Classic route
Classic route
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Pictures


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Last first ascents of Matei Schenn climbed