Today we celebrate 45 years since Prager (Peretele Alexandru) first ascent

Ionel Coman




3760 page views


  • Profil
  • Timeline
  • Pictures (3)
  • Videos

Profile Ionel Coman - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


   Born: 06.12.1920 the danube
Deceased: 02.04.2008, Brasov, romania

Born on the 6th of December 1920 in the city of Braila, he has lived in Bucharest in the period 1927-1945, and after that he settled in the town of Brasov, the "near mountain". The 16-year-old climbed up on the Postavarul mountain. At 19 years of age, given that the "guide" Bulletin of the Romanian Alpine Club, he made his first rappel on the wall of the house, after a photo of the bulletin board, and then it went up, "with one end of the rope and two hooks.", he was walking all alone, nose have anything to do to the Giant in the Valley of the Drying up of the Caraiman mountain, the Top of the Ridge the of the Calendula, the Chimney Concealed, and many others. When it was secured, in the first few hands. In 1939, he attended the school of modern ca?aratura to the refuge of the Co?tila, organized by the Romanian Alpine Club. In 1940, he took the first prize, and since then, about thirty. In the winter of 1940-1941 he has a bad accident on the descent from the Top of the Slide, suffering a compound fracture to his ankle, while his team mate by breaking the wave of a hand. Crawling around on all night, it reached into the bottom of the Valley, to the Dry of the Caraiman mountain, from where it is saved. A few years later, he lost his little brother, if you are rooted, and in the same area, and the retraction of the Tip of the Droplet (in the rapelurile to Dry the Caraiman mountain). Under the "cradle of the ca?araturii local", the Co?tilei, which I know is very good, the bad, and the other areas are: the Valley of the Malae?ti, the walls of the Gu?anul, Session of Caline?, Ciuca?ul. In parallel with the practice of mountain climbing, John Carluccio has dealt with the investigation of the caves, has made shooting underwater, it was skiing. He was accompanied everywhere by his wife, Maya, a companion at the crossings of the winter, on skis, to the massive Iezer-papusa mountains and Piatra Craiului mountains, Fagaras Mountains, the Rodna Mountains, etc., All together, they climbed the rope to the premiere of the Chimney, down Deep, at the Edge of the Red. She went with him to Turkey, as the Erciyes (up to 3 700 meters).
Apart from the opening carried out Ion Order for it to manifest as a great, steadfast propagandist of the idea and the practice of mountain climbing. In 1946, as soon as it is established in Brasov, the first propaganda of the conference, he organized a school for climbing in the Cabin, Candid, and one of the pillars of the courtyard of the high school of music in Brasov, he has led numerous climbing and collective and, in 1968-1975 they took the tour of the school, no. 15 in the village. He was a member of the committee of the F. R. A. T., and the Committee of the mountaineering part of the county of Brasov, judge, and ruler of the alpiniadelor of the winter into the mountains. He has written books in which he expressed his love for the mountains, calling on the readers to follow the example of this: I love the mountains - 1963; rock-Climbing once, and the last in 1969; a Trip to the roof of the world - 1974; To the snowy heights of the East - 1975; The Adventure of the S-75 and 1977. The latter book was reprinted in 1980 in English under the title the hindu kush 75 expedicio. In addition to these books, he is the author of a manual of climbing, which is entitled, even: the Little manual of mountaineering (1950).
One of the climbs over the borders of the european Co include:
in 1969, at the age of 49, that a representative of the socialist Republic of romania on an expedition to soviet competition in the Pamirs, the "Mircea" is Popular - the secretary-general of the F. R. A. T., he climbed the Peak of Lenin (7 134 meters);
In 1970, he organized the first expedition, from brasov, with the purpose of the alpine cultural and strabatînd is a great circuit, and going back to Turkey, he went up the top of the highest mountain in central Anatolia (in conjunction with Valentine's day Garner), which is Erciyes (3 910 m), with its towering walls of ice;
In 1972, he traveled with two cars, the Dacia 1100, a great circuit in Turkey, and the united kingdom, he passed over the Mountains of Alborz, in the Caspian Sea, across the Bathiariei in the Persian Gulf, it shot up (Anton Demeter) to the highest peak in Iran, Demavand (5 671 m),
in 1975, he organized another expedition from brasov to the north of Afghanistan. There, he climbed Kohe Bandaka (6 843 m) (Ion Coman, Valentine's day Garner, Z. Kovacs & Anthony Meet). After the trip, he gave lectures with slide projections in the various cities of the country.
He went to the mountains and in the Triglav, the Pirin mountain, the high Tatras, and has made the paths of the ca?aratura as: the north wall of the Maliovi?a, Bulgaria, Zabikon and Bostrendi-Tatras, Czech republic, in Stanislavka Drugs of the Priest - the high Tatras of Polish, etc., To the credit of the propagation of the mountain and realised he was awarded in February 1982 and the title of master of sports in rock-climbing.
* * *
Articles:
Ion Coman - the Shoulder of marigolds, The CAR, the Year of VIII, December 1940, no. 2-3-4, pp.. 59 to 62,

Ion Coman, Oscar Schobesch the Crack Centerline of the Wall of the Valley, White ,The CAR, the Year of VIII, December 1940, no. 2-3-4 pg. 62-64

* * *
All other contributions/views with regard to the biography of Ionel-Crisan:
Later Mititeanu: http://dinumititeanu.ro/Ionel-Coman


Information source
Pe crestele Carpaţilor - Niculae Baticu, Radu Țițeica, 1984
Creasta Prieteniei (premiera) - Album foto film "25 de ani de cataratura in Carpati (1950-1975)" Roland Welkens  


First ascents

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Fisurile Centrale With description With topo With picture4A, 67 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Văii Albe
2.Creasta Vulturilor (Uriaşului) With description With topo With picture Coordinates3B, 7 (6, A0)3 pitches3     Classic routePeretele Policandrului (Vulturilor)
3.Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates2B, 6/6+ (4, A0)6 pitches5     Classic routeUmărul Gălbenelelor
4.Creasta Estică With description With picture2B0     Classic routeColţul Gălbenelelor
5.Extrema Stângă (Traseul Direct din Turnul Mălăieşti) With description With topo With picture5B10 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mălăieşti
6.Tavanele With description With topo With picture5B10 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mălăieşti
7.Traseul Oblic With description With picture4B8 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mălăieşti
8.Traseul Încurcat Unidentified route4B9pitches0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
9.Dintele Babei Unidentified route4A7pitches0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
10.Peretele Turnului Straja Mare Unidentified route4B4pitches0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
11.Surplomba Neagră Unidentified route4B5pitches0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
12.Fisura din Găvan Unidentified route3B4pitches0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
13.Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture4B, 6+ (5+, A1)5 pitches4     Classic routeTurnul Goliat
14.Muchia Coloanelor din Orga MareAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video With comments4A, 6+ (A0)5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Orga Mare
15.Traseul MedardusAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description3B6 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mic al Dianei
16.Muchia ÎnsorităAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With picture4B4 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Mare din Padina Popii
17.Hornul din Brâul RăchiteiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture With comments3B, 65 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Răchitei
18.Hornul Adânc - firul principalAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture With comments4A0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
19.Hornul Adânc - firul secundarAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With topo With picture With comments2A0     Alpine routePadina lui Călineţ
20.Creasta PrietenieiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video5A, (6, A0)6 pitches0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
21.Creasta Coarnele CapreiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With video4A, 7- (6-, A0)6 pitches4     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
22.Creasta FrumoasăAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With comments3A7 pitches0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
23.Creasta PiticuluiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture4A, 6+/7-2 pitches0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
24.Traseul 1 - esticAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture2A1 pitches0     Classic routeDegetul lui Călineţ
25.Colţul Dărâmat din Vâlcelul Superior al ŞpirleiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture4B, 7 (5/5+, A0)7 pitches4     Classic routeVâlcelul Superior al Şpirlei
26.Traseul CentralAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description3A11 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş
27.Extrema stângă a Peretelui Marelui GrohotișAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description2B8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş
28.Muchia lui IvanAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture3B, 65 pitches0     Classic routeValea lui Ivan
29.Muchia Setii4A5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Corbilor
30.Traseul Clasic (Traseul Ciobanilor)3A, 5- (3+, A0)4 pitches5     Classic routePietrele Doamnei - Piatra Mare
31.Traseul Frontal prin Horn4A0     Classic routeColţul Bălăceni
32.Peretele de la Ceardacul StanciuluiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description2A5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Superior de la Ceardac

First winter ascents

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates2B, 6/6+ (4, A0)6 pitches5     Classic routeUmărul Gălbenelelor

Second ascents (First repeats)

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Fisura Pintenului Văii Albe With description With topo5A, (5, A1)8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Văii Albe
2.Trei Surplombe 5 star route With description With topo With picture With video5A, 7+ (6+, A0)8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Gălbenelelor

Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route

Tavanele 5B

26.07.1958
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route
Classic route

Pictures


alt

Discover alpinist videos