Ionel Coman




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Profile Ionel Coman - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


   Born: 06.12.1920 the danube
Deceased: 02.04.2008, Brasov, romania

Born on the 6th of December 1920 in the city of Braila, he has lived in Bucharest in the period 1927-1945, and after that he settled in the town of Brasov, the "near mountain". The 16-year-old climbed up on the Postavarul mountain. At 19 years of age, given that the "guide" Bulletin of the Romanian Alpine Club, he made his first rappel on the wall of the house, after a photo of the bulletin board, and then it went up, "with one end of the rope and two hooks.", he was walking all alone, nose have anything to do to the Giant in the Valley of the Drying up of the Caraiman mountain, the Top of the Ridge the of the Calendula, the Chimney Concealed, and many others. When it was secured, in the first few hands. In 1939, he attended the school of modern ca?aratura to the refuge of the Co?tila, organized by the Romanian Alpine Club. In 1940, he took the first prize, and since then, about thirty. In the winter of 1940-1941 he has a bad accident on the descent from the Top of the Slide, suffering a compound fracture to his ankle, while his team mate by breaking the wave of a hand. Crawling around on all night, it reached into the bottom of the Valley, to the Dry of the Caraiman mountain, from where it is saved. A few years later, he lost his little brother, if you are rooted, and in the same area, and the retraction of the Tip of the Droplet (in the rapelurile to Dry the Caraiman mountain). Under the "cradle of the ca?araturii local", the Co?tilei, which I know is very good, the bad, and the other areas are: the Valley of the Malae?ti, the walls of the Gu?anul, Session of Caline?, Ciuca?ul. In parallel with the practice of mountain climbing, John Carluccio has dealt with the investigation of the caves, has made shooting underwater, it was skiing. He was accompanied everywhere by his wife, Maya, a companion at the crossings of the winter, on skis, to the massive Iezer-papusa mountains and Piatra Craiului mountains, Fagaras Mountains, the Rodna Mountains, etc., All together, they climbed the rope to the premiere of the Chimney, down Deep, at the Edge of the Red. She went with him to Turkey, as the Erciyes (up to 3 700 meters).
Apart from the opening carried out Ion Order for it to manifest as a great, steadfast propagandist of the idea and the practice of mountain climbing. In 1946, as soon as it is established in Brasov, the first propaganda of the conference, he organized a school for climbing in the Cabin, Candid, and one of the pillars of the courtyard of the high school of music in Brasov, he has led numerous climbing and collective and, in 1968-1975 they took the tour of the school, no. 15 in the village. He was a member of the committee of the F. R. A. T., and the Committee of the mountaineering part of the county of Brasov, judge, and ruler of the alpiniadelor of the winter into the mountains. He has written books in which he expressed his love for the mountains, calling on the readers to follow the example of this: I love the mountains - 1963; rock-Climbing once, and the last in 1969; a Trip to the roof of the world - 1974; To the snowy heights of the East - 1975; The Adventure of the S-75 and 1977. The latter book was reprinted in 1980 in English under the title the hindu kush 75 expedicio. In addition to these books, he is the author of a manual of climbing, which is entitled, even: the Little manual of mountaineering (1950).
One of the climbs over the borders of the european Co include:
in 1969, at the age of 49, that a representative of the socialist Republic of romania on an expedition to soviet competition in the Pamirs, the "Mircea" is Popular - the secretary-general of the F. R. A. T., he climbed the Peak of Lenin (7 134 meters);
In 1970, he organized the first expedition, from brasov, with the purpose of the alpine cultural and strabatînd is a great circuit, and going back to Turkey, he went up the top of the highest mountain in central Anatolia (in conjunction with Valentine's day Garner), which is Erciyes (3 910 m), with its towering walls of ice;
In 1972, he traveled with two cars, the Dacia 1100, a great circuit in Turkey, and the united kingdom, he passed over the Mountains of Alborz, in the Caspian Sea, across the Bathiariei in the Persian Gulf, it shot up (Anton Demeter) to the highest peak in Iran, Demavand (5 671 m),
in 1975, he organized another expedition from brasov to the north of Afghanistan. There, he climbed Kohe Bandaka (6 843 m) (Ion Coman, Valentine's day Garner, Z. Kovacs & Anthony Meet). After the trip, he gave lectures with slide projections in the various cities of the country.
He went to the mountains and in the Triglav, the Pirin mountain, the high Tatras, and has made the paths of the ca?aratura as: the north wall of the Maliovi?a, Bulgaria, Zabikon and Bostrendi-Tatras, Czech republic, in Stanislavka Drugs of the Priest - the high Tatras of Polish, etc., To the credit of the propagation of the mountain and realised he was awarded in February 1982 and the title of master of sports in rock-climbing.
* * *
Articles:
Ion Coman - the Shoulder of marigolds, The CAR, the Year of VIII, December 1940, no. 2-3-4, pp.. 59 to 62,

Ion Coman, Oscar Schobesch the Crack Centerline of the Wall of the Valley, White ,The CAR, the Year of VIII, December 1940, no. 2-3-4 pg. 62-64

* * *
All other contributions/views with regard to the biography of Ionel-Crisan:
Later Mititeanu: http://dinumititeanu.ro/Ionel-Coman


Information source
Pe crestele Carpaţilor - Niculae Baticu, Radu Țițeica, 1984
Creasta Prieteniei (premiera) - Album foto film "25 de ani de cataratura in Carpati (1950-1975)" Roland Welkens  


First ascents

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Fisurile Centrale (Cracks In The Central) With description With topo With picture4A, 67 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Văii Albe
2.Creasta Vulturilor (Uriaşului) (The Crest Of The Eagle (Giant)) With description With topo With picture Coordinates3B, 7 (6, A0)3 pitches3     Classic routePeretele Policandrului (Vulturilor)
3.Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) (The route of the Order (the Edge of the North-Eastern part of the Shoulder of the Marigolds)) Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates2B, 6/6+ (4, A0)6 pitches5     Classic routeUmărul Gălbenelelor
4.Creasta Estică (The Crest Of The East) With description With picture2B0     Classic routeColţul Gălbenelelor
5.Extrema Stângă (Traseul Direct din Turnul Mălăieşti) (To the far Left (the Trail Straight out of the Tower, Mălăieşti)) With description With topo With picture5B10 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mălăieşti
6.Tavanele (The ceilings of the) With description With topo With picture5B10 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mălăieşti
7.Traseul Oblic (The Route Of The Oblique) With description With picture4B8 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mălăieşti
8.Traseul Încurcat (The Trail Mixed Up)4B0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
9.Dintele Babei (Tooth Of The Old Woman)4A0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
10.Peretele Turnului Straja Mare (The Wall Of The Tower, Watch The Big)4B0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
11.Surplomba Neagră (Overhanging Climbing, The Black)4B0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
12.Fisura din Găvan (The crack in the Hollow)3B0     Classic routeTrasee de perete izolate
13.Turnul Goliat (Moşul cu Oile) (The tower of Goliath (the old man of the Sheep)) 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture4B, 6+ (5+, A1)5 pitches4     Classic routeTurnul Goliat
14.Muchia Coloanelor din Orga Mare (The edge of the Columns of the Organ, the Great)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video With comments4A, 6+ (A0)5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Orga Mare
15.Traseul Medardus (The Route Of Medardus)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description3B6 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Mic al Dianei
16.Muchia Însorită (The Edge Of The Sun)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With picture4B4 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Mare din Padina Popii
17.Hornul din Brâul Răchitei (The chimney in the Middle of Wicker)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture With comments3B, 65 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Răchitei
18.Hornul Adânc - firul principal (The chimney's Deep the main)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture With comments4A0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
19.Hornul Adânc - firul secundar (The chimney's Deep the side)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With topo With picture With comments2A0     Alpine routePadina lui Călineţ
20.Creasta Prieteniei (The Crest Of Friendship)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video5A, (6, A0)6 pitches0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
21.Creasta Coarnele Caprei (The Crest Horns Of The Goat)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With video4A, 7- (6-, A0)6 pitches4     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
22.Creasta Frumoasă (The Crest Of The Beautiful)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With comments3A7 pitches0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
23.Creasta Piticului (The Crest Of The Little Fella)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture4A, 6+/7-2 pitches0     Classic routePadina lui Călineţ
24.Traseul 1 - estic (Route 1 - east)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture2A1 pitches0     Classic routeDegetul lui Călineţ
25.Colţul Dărâmat din Vâlcelul Superior al Şpirlei (The corner Down from the Vâlcelul Top of the Șpirlei)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo With picture4B, 7 (5/5+, A0)7 pitches4     Classic routeVâlcelul Superior al Şpirlei
26.Traseul Central (The Route Of The Central)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description3A11 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş
27.Extrema stângă a Peretelui Marelui Grohotiș (To the far left of the Wall of the Great Stone)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description2B8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Central al Marelui Grohotiş
28.Muchia lui Ivan (The edge of the Ivan's)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With picture3B, 65 pitches0     Classic routeValea lui Ivan
29.Muchia Setii (The Edge Of The Thirst)4A5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Corbilor
30.Traseul Clasic (Traseul Ciobanilor) (The Classic Route (The Route Of The Shepherds))3A, 5- (3+, A0)4 pitches5     Classic routePietrele Doamnei - Piatra Mare
31.Traseul Frontal prin Horn (The route through the Front of the Chimney)4A0     Classic routeColţul Bălăceni
32.Peretele de la Ceardacul Stanciului (The wall of the Ceardacul is wild and spectacular)Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description2A5 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Superior de la Ceardac

First winter ascents

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Traseul Coman (Muchia Nord-Estică din Umărul Gălbenelelor) (The route of the Order (the Edge of the North-Eastern part of the Shoulder of the Marigolds)) Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates2B, 6/6+ (4, A0)6 pitches5     Classic routeUmărul Gălbenelelor

Second ascents (First repeats)

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Fisura Pintenului Văii Albe (The Crack Of The Spire To The Valley Of The White) With description With topo5A, (5, A1)8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Văii Albe
2.Trei Surplombe (The Three Overhangs) 5 star route With description With topo With video5A, 7+ (6+, A0)8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Gălbenelelor


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