Today we celebrate 85 years since Furcile (Peretele Gălbenelelor) first ascent, 1 year since Memorial Páll Endre (Heaven and Hell) (Piatra Altarului) first ascent

Dumitru Chivu




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Profile Dumitru Chivu - Translated with Yandex Tanslate


   Born: 17.03.1941, Busteni, Prahova County
Deceased: 06.09.2016, Busteni, Prahova County

He was born in a Log at the march 17, 1941. As a child, his playground, as well as that of others, for me, was the forest. Later on, when I saw the rock climbers heading up to the ridges, and he went after her. This started a love for the mountains and passion for the ca?aratura. At age 16, in 1957, at the Young days, the first ca?aratura Tudor Hurbean, the instructor who taught him the art of using it as a training ground for the plaque at the entrance to the route of the Fissure is interrupted by the retreat Co?tila. In 1959, he attended the school of the ca?aratura, organized by the Romanian Federation of skiing, the bobsled, and mountain climbing in the Ialomita Cave (the instructors, The Floricioiu, offered Ieremia). Among the peers, with a lot of talent here, and Petre, Cristina, and all of the Logs. Dumitru Chivu, he worked at the club, Dinamo, Brasov, romania, where he climbed a lot with Nicolae Jitaru, get together with, among others, in the 1960's, The Blue one. On October 1, 1961, he went to do his military service, during which he asked the House Officers of Brasov, romania. In 1964, he went out a champion, "at-speed", and in Cheile Bicazului, at the finals of the '64.

Together with Miklós Nagy, he was able to establish a record of the velocity of the Crack of the Blue, which still endures after all these decades. 2h 22min.

In 1969, he was awarded the title of master of sports in rock-climbing. Dumitru Chivu has won a lot of races, a lot of it was the trails that climb up into the country, or across the country, but the most important ones are still openings.
The keys of Bicaz gorge: 1962 — the Spurs rank VI (Dumitru Chivu and László Karácsonyi, one and a half days, with a bivouac on the wall: the first ascent of a grade VI was part of the principles of rock climbing to modern, from single-entry);
the awards for the winter season:
1971 — the Three Overhangs in the wall of the Marigold (Dumitru Chivu and nicolas Said, in seven hours from the base to the crest);
the route of the overhanging climbing the Chimney of the Ciorînga High (Dumitru Chivu and nicolas Nagy).
Climbing across the country. Because of his exceptional Dumitru Chivu has been asked often over the country. In Bulgaria, it has been several times since 1963, when he, along with László Karácsonyi, they got Cernata Stena grade-VI to B. Has gone to Poland, Czechoslovakia, Italy, and France (this is where he stayed for 20 days at the national school of skiing and mountaineering), in the Pamirs, Yugoslavia, and Greece.


Information source
Pe crestele Carpaţilor - Niculae Baticu, Radu Țițeica, 1984
Sursa foto: Pagina FB Hello, Buşteni!; revista Sport și Tehnică
Romania Natura - Foto explorare februarie 1972 in pestera Cetatile Ponorului
Interviu din 2015, partea I
Interviu din 2015, partea a II-a




First ascents/Bolted routes

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Hornul Mare de la Izvor With description With topo With picture Coordinates4B6 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
2.Aurel Irimia With description With topo With picture Coordinates6A, (7, A1)9 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
3.Muchia Strungii With description With topo With picture Coordinates5B7 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
4.Muchia Sudică With description With topo With picture Coordinates5A6 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sudic al Clăii Mari
5.Fisura de la Grota Lupului Coordinates4B4 pitches0     Classic routePeretele sud-vestic al Crestei cu Zâmbri
6.Hornul din Valea Lupului (Hornul lui Derdelea) Coordinates5B0     Classic routePeretele sud-vestic al Crestei cu Zâmbri
7.Surplombele de Aur 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo Coordinates6A, (5, A2+)7 pitches4     Classic routeCheile Râşnovului
8.Fisura GalbenăAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description Coordinates5B5 pitches0     Classic routeBrâul Ciorânga Mare
9.Surplomba HornuluiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo Coordinates5B7 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Ciorânga Mare
10.Traseul 3Access Natural Park Piatra Craiului With topo With picture3A2 pitches0     Classic routeDegetul lui Călineţ
11.Turnul Porumbeilor With topo Coordinates4B2 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Porumbeilor
12.Traseul Vânătorului de Munte With topo Coordinates4A5 pitches0     Classic routeTurnul Vânătorului de Munte
13.Surplombele Peşterii Mari With topo Coordinates5A3 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Peşterii Mari
14.Traseul Marius With topo Coordinates4B3 pitches0     Classic routeSantinela Peşterii
15.Traseul Citadela Sfărâmată With topo Coordinates4B3 pitches0     Classic routeCitadela Sfărâmată
16.Traseul Nenumit6A10 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Bardosului
17.Traseul Armata 5 star route With topo With picture6B, (A2)10 pitches5     Classic routePeretele Bardosului
18.Pintenul lui Cătălin 5 star route Fantastic With description With topo With picture With video5B, 8-/8 (6, A2)8 pitches5     Classic routePeretele Nordic
19.Traseul Pintenilor With description With topo6A, (A2)12 pitches2     Classic routePeretele Pintenilor
20.Traseul Intersectat With description With topo With video6B, (7, A2/A3)11 pitches4     Classic routePeretele Pintenilor
21.Traseul lui Mitică Coordinates15 m0     Sport climbingBolovanul lui Mitică

First winter ascents

Nr.    Route    Grade    Length    Beauty    Type    Wall    
1.Trei Surplombe 5 star route With description With topo With picture With video Coordinates5A, 7+ (6+, A0)8 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Gălbenelelor
2.Surplomba HornuluiAccess Natural Park Piatra Craiului With description With topo Coordinates5B7 pitches0     Classic routePeretele Ciorânga Mare

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Pictures


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